So the blogging has been slacking..... Again. Its been about two weeks, busy weeks (no excuse), since my last confession/blog. After Pisa my grandmother and mother settled into their apartment on Vial Delle Terme, a road that dates back to Roman times and means “Road of the Baths”. Although today devoid of any baths this cobblestoned, windy, narrow road was filled with character and a feeling of age and depth. Old building looked across the road at each other with their red roofs and identical green shutters. Alleys to markets, the Arno and little piazza’s split away seemingly at random. The road was about one block from the entrance to the ponte vecchio and about 2 blocks from Piazza della signoria (the plaza with all the statues, the palazzo vecchio and the replica david). It was a great spot not because of its proximity to landmarks but because although my grandma could get out and walk her endurance isnt what it used to be so home was usually a short distance from wherever we were. The apartment was beautiful inside with a price daily that was better than most hotels, especially for two people. We spent the days exploring the cities, expanding my circle of known areas. We visited the street markets and back alleys and just about everywhere possible. That weekend we headed out at 7AM to Rome. ( I have to quit throwing coins in the Trevi fountain or Im going to be back in Rome every few weeks) We arrived in Roma Termini about 2 hours later to a warm, sunny Rome. We walked to the departures board, which lists the departure times to all cities all day. They are usually at the end of the platform near where the trains are, although you can find them other places in the station. There were a few trains back to Firenze but we settled on the 7 PM one. We walked through the mall-like trainstation down to the metro area. In Europe alot of the trainstations are also large shopping complexes with restaurants and nice stores. To get to the Metro lines you have to follow the red “M” signs down about 3 flights of stairs. In rome there are only two lines and there are posters on the wall the show where they run. You go either left or right for your selected line and buy a ticket from a little automated machine for 1 euro (its good for 45 or 90 minutes). The trains are usually pretty crowded and you definitely need to keep an eye on your stuff. We were traveling light since it was just a day trip so we just had to hold onto our wallets or purses. There was even a lady playing the accordion on this train, which I think we all enjoyed. We unloaded a stop too late so we had to walk a few blocks to the Vatican, which unfortunately, is closed on Sundays.... Disappointed but realizing it wasnt the only show in town we headed for St.Peters Basilica. Outside of the Basilica there was a mass of people, secret service type guards and helicopters buzzing. The Pope was giving mass somewhere close and although we didnt see him there was a energy to the crowd that made the visit a little more interesting. We looked around the enormous piazza ringed with large columns that were toped with saints and other religious figures. There were dozens. We went pretty quickly through the line and the metal detector and into the enormous church. Mom and grandma were appropriately awe struck. On these return visits I’ve found I almost like watching the people Im showing things too as much as I like looking for myself. Maybe I should run tours? Bill I need a website! We went through the treasury museum, something I hadnt done yet. It was filled with all types of amazing artifacts and religious jewelry, covered in Diamonds and jewels and all kinds of precious metals. Sensing nonna was getting tired we headed out and had lunch at a cafeteria. Feeling refreshed we went outside where we saw one of those double decker sightseeing buses. As we only had one day we decided to try it out. For about 10 or 15 euro you get a pretty good tour of the city, with explanations of everything you go by explained through headphones. We sat on top although it had become cloudy and sprinkles came down every once in a while. After riding through the city for about an hour we go off at the colosseum stop and walked around it marveling (again) about how intact it still was. We went inside for a while before heading over to look at the forum. It had just closed right when we got to it but we walked around the hills a little bit before heading back down to the colosseum. Grandma was getting tired but there were a couple things they needed to see so we got a cap and visited the trevi fountain (we all threw coins in) the Pantheon (mom really liked that one) and finally the top of the Spanish steps (right at sunset) then on to the trainstation. We made it home having seen a pretty good introduction to Rome. The week went by pretty quickly with lots of walking and sightseeing. After and in between classes(we made a great pork roast stuffed with dates and garlic and rolled in a sage, rosemary, sale pepemix. We also baked apple with sweet wine and honey and baked potatoes.It went together very well) I would walk over and either hangout at the apartment or we would walk around. We covered the highlights of Florence and many backstreets that tourists usually dont see. I definitely got to know the shops of Florence as many people had asked for certain kinds of gifts. Feeling the pressure of finding the right Italian souvenire we had nice walks through the large shopping areas, which was good because I had limited experience in those areas. I found alot of cool little shops and inexpensive clothes. We also made it to the Uffizi, an amazing museum that I hadnt been to yet. Having made reservations we didnt have to wait in line, which at this point of the year is geting longer and longer each day. Its a very large U shaped building connected to the Palazzo Vecchio. The main part of the museum is on the second floor. We made our way up and into a long hallway. The hallway went all the way around the U and the art was in side rooms. Although there was so much amazing art my favorites were easy. The masters Botticelli, Rapael, Leonardo Da Vinci Michaelangelo and so many others were represented very well. One amazing thing was seeing one of my friends mother. Jussaly Hetman, a girl I went to school with for years and who was babysat by my sister, her mother was walking around the Uffizi with a friend. We talked for a few minutes and I gave her my number to show her around, but wasnt able to get in touch. Im really glad I got to see the Ufizi. Great museum. My mom also got me some great souvenires, including an excellent book: Florence, the biography of a city by Christopher Hibbert and a poster of ancient Florence. Tired from walking for hours we took Grandma home. Mom and I continued on and walked for a while together before climbing up the Duomo. She did great, climbing steady like she was back on Angel Rock. The day was perfect and she got a great view of Florence. After class that night Grandma was still resting so I took mom for a long walk around the river area and Santa Croce and finally to the most famous gelato place in the world, Vivoli of Florence. Great gelato, very smooth and authentic. The last weekend they were here we took a day trip to Venice, which was great. I knew my way around the Canal and the streets immediately surrounding it so we had a pretty easy time. We left Florence around 8 and got to Venice a couple hours later. I had bought a pack of Italian cards so they could also learn. We practiced on the way, which made time go by alot faster. When we arrived in Venice we walked out of the trainstation and were faced with the grand canal. To the immediate left there is a little stand selling bus passes (water bus). We bought some that lasted for 12 hours. You can buy up to a week pass. Although I have been off and on the water busses in Venice about a hundred times and never had my ticket checked, the fine is pretty big if you dont have it. As I like to do we cruised up the entire length of the canal down to Piazza San Marco where the main church is. We got off the water bus and walked through the Piazza with all the pigeons, feeding them of course. I got some good pictures of mom and grandma covered in pigeons. Then we went inside the church, something I hadnt done yet. The inside was completely covered in gold. Walls to ceiling. It was definitely older than most of the churches I have been too and in remarkable condition. We walked around inside for a while then walked into the large rectangular courtyard facing the church. Along the courtyard there were restaurants with outside seating and musicians playing classical music. Of course since its Italy there was plenty of wine drinking and making out. Public displays of affection are not taboo in Italy. We wandered around some back streets before taking the canal bus back up to the middle, where the large white bride is. We went back into a neighborhood I was familiar with and found a little restaurant to have lunch in. We had a Venetian White wine and pasta. We spent some time looking through the unique mask and glass stores along with the incredible pastry and candy stores. On the way back to the trainstation we had a nice walk in the back streets where they have their fresh food markets. On the ride back we had a nice ride back, playing scopa and relaxing. We got back at a decent hour so we went out to eat at the trattatoria on my old street, trattatoria, San Zanobi. Since Im kind of a regular we were treated to sliced meats and cheeses and fresh olives. We sampled a few plates and had a nice Italian style dinner. The next day was their next to last day so we stopped by for some gelato at the place where I had my first gelato, near Hotel Roma. After, since its such a long walk for grandma we took a taxi un to piazza michaelangelo. Mom and I had walked there but I thought it would be a good goodbye for grandma to see the whole city at night. The next day was the last and we got some more good walking in and picked up the last of the gifts and souvenires. Mom was quite generous with everyone and I got somethings I would never be able to get normally. I thought I was going to go home with just pictures and memories, which would be fine with me. Coming home with some Italian clothes and shoes is so much better tho! That night I wanted to take mom to an authentic tuscun Restaurant so I called my friend Damiano and he recommended Semolina a restaurant near San Ambrogia market. We arrived around 9 to a restaurant stuffed full of only Italians, a very good sign. The walls were painted wildly and there was a fun but intimate vibe in the restaurant. Noisy groups waving there hands around and eating amazing smelling foods were all around. Damiano had told me to say he sent me so I told the waitress and out came his friends one by one to give me a very friendly hello. We ordered the standard Italian first course, water and vino. We ordered a mixed meat and cheese plate followed by gnocchi (know-kee) and a seafood pasta. The meat was excellent, with many different cuts of meat of perfect quality. The gnocchi was perfectly cooked and formed. The seafood pasta had exceptionall flavor and plenty of shrimp, mussels, clams and more. After that we ordered a tuna dish, not knowing what to expect. What arrived was a tuna steak perfectly seared only on the outside on a bed of perfectly cooked carrot, spinach and other veggies. Covering the fish and veggies was a thick, tangy sauce. The dish seemed to resist at first, with the crispy searing then melt in your mouth with raw fish and the very complimentary sauce. We then had our coffee and desert, cappuccino and tiramisu. Followed by the italian digestive, lemoncello. Definitely and Italian meal. Perfect. It also was fun to have dinner with my mom. On her trip we had a great time together, which was great because we had missed eachother. Their flight left at 7 so I walked over to her apartment at 4 and we left for the airport at 430. I helped them through until the security point, then went home to get some sleep. Im sure Ill remember some more from the trip and write about it later but overall mom and grandma became Florentine for a couple weeks and really took to the city. The next day I had a day to myself and took the opportunity to take my bike and go play basketball. With my new wheels an hour walk each way became a 20 minute ride. You definitely have to keep your head up when you ride a bike through Italian traffic. After basket I rode around the city for a while. The next day I had my last final and my step brother Alex and his wife Nami were scheduled to come in but they missed a connection so wouldnt be in until the next morning. My good friend Mario was also intown for a week so we went to hangout with him and his little brother and friend who also came with him. The next day I met Alex and Nami at the Duomo and gave them a nice 6 hour walking tour. We covered tons of ground and went into many churches and shops. I took them to Vestri a little shop that makes its own shop and bought them some chocolates. Anyone who comes to Florence needs to make a stop there. We finished with a nice dinner and since it was pouring rain they took a cab home. The next day we met again at the Duomo and walked to the Ufizzi to make reservations. We were also able to make reservations for the david. We tried to make it to a soccer game but the timing didnt work out so I suggested we head to Pisa. It would be a good chance to introduce them to the trainstation as they were going a few places. Pisa was fun, once again I bought a pack of cards and taught them some scopa. The clouds in the sky were crazy and I got some great pics. So what if it was my 5th time there. I like going to pisa. When we got back We walked around for a while before walking them home. It was Marios last night so we all went back to Semolina and had a great dinner. There was about 8 of us and we all sampled each others food and everything was excellent. Damiano took us to a local Italian hangout and we stayed there for a while. So far this week its been really rainy but today the sun is shining so Im going to take the bike out. I head for Amsterdam with my roommates thursday so that should be fun.
p.s. Finishing up last of Alex and Nami and.......... My trip to amsterdam. Which was incredible and a mix of Las Vegas, Italy and New York. Everyone should go there once. Also a special thanks to mom for the emergency transfer that allowed me to Fly home in time for school....
2 comments:
Love the pictures and the post! Your grandmother has a way with birds. Thanks--great work.
Hi Sean !
It was great to relive our trip through your blog! Great detail and photos. How was Amsterdam? I miss the smaller Italian cars ,bring one back OK? ! American cars seem like monsters now ! Love you , Mom
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