Pisa, Cooking, Taste of USA.

Well my ankle is getting better, I was able to play basketball on it yesterday (even full court) at the "basket camp" which was fun. Happy thanksgiving to everyone that I didnt get to talk to. My computer finally came in after about 3 weeks of sitting in customs so I plan on having a little more content and more frequent posting.
Last Friday Scott, Brittany and I decided to go to Pisa and Lavorno. Pisa because you cant come to Italy and not see the leaning tower. Both are about an hour west by train. We purchased tickets from the machines in the terminal (Bill I put a picture on for you) for 5.40 Euro and only had to wait about 20 minutes for the next train to Pisa. We ate the salami sandwhiches we had made and enjoyed the short trip. As usual a gypsy came along asking for money with a handout in english and Italian. The Pisa station was one of the plainer stations I'd seen and on the smaller side. Outside it was drizzling a little bit but humid and warm. We didnt have a map so we took a taxi (only the 3rd time ive been in a car since Aug 27th and it felt weird) for only 5 Euro to the city center where the "Field of Miracles" was. Its always shocking but surprisingly common in Italy to be driving or walking down a street and BAM there will be one of the most beautiful or awesome buildings you've ever see. The field of miracles was a large open area with very green grass. to the left of where we came in was the round baptistry, in the middle was an impressive Duomo ( Not like our Florentine Duomo tho) and closest to us was the tower. Around the outside of the field was a cobblestone street, shiny from the rain. Outside of that was a line of little market stalls selling tourist goodies and post cards. The corner we came in from was city buildings and the other 3/4 surrounded by a medium height red brick wall. From our angle the tower didnt have much of a lean to it but was still beautiful and larger than I had expected. Layered like a wedding cake with columns all around it would be important architecture even if it wasnt leaning, especially considering that it was built over 800 years ago. Moving to the left towards the baptistry the lean became more and more pronounced. When we were between the baptistry and the Duomo the tower couldnt be seen so we spent some time looking at the carving and designs on the two buildings. The doors, especially on the duomo were nice and interesting with biblical scenes similar to the gates of paradise in Firenze. Once around the Duomo the full tower was in view, this time from the best side to see the Tower. Sunken into the ground on one side the Tower was at an impossible angle. I laughed out loud at seeing it as it didnt seem possible that something that big could stay standing. I suggested walking back to the trainstation so we could see more of the city than just a cab and the field. I love getting away from the tourist sights, although they are important, and seeing what something is really about. Thats something Im looking forward to doing when my dad comes because hes the same way. Scott and Brittany agreed and we set off in the general direction of the station. I knew it was on the other side of the Arno (the Arno flows through Pisa also. Back when Pisa and Florence were rivals Florentines would pee as much as possible in the arno as Pisa was downstream) and generally a straight line from the tower. Pisa was alot more laid back and slower paced than Firenze and we got to see some of the christmas decorations being put up. As we got into a residential area we felt unsure about the direction so we asked and were only slightly off. When we go to the arno we crossed and found ourselves walking next to a castle that was in great shape. Some of it actually arched over the road and we walked though it and saw throught the bars a large garden and tall turrets. The drizzle picked up a little and I could tell that Brittany might have been regretting the walking decision, but she stuck it out and we made it to the station reasonably quickly. At the station we debated going to Lavorno. Scotts dad works for the military in Germany and has a military ID so we had been planning on going to the U.S. base in lavorno but now it was about 6:15 and we werent sure if it was still open. We wanted to go to the base strictly for American food, which doesnt sound very reasonable but I look at it like this: Although I always complain (often reasonably) about American food its like a girlfriend that you have been going out with for years (20 for me) and even tho shes not a very good girlfriend you cant help but miss her. I've been missing things I dont even eat at home. The stuff I walk by in the grocery food on the way to the feta cheese and Italian bread. Cooler ranch chips, breakfast cereal (the bad ones), reeces, macaroni and cheese (theres no cheddar here), and junk in general. Anyway Im sure it sounds crazy to you all but this is an issue that has been coming up for all of us over her. So we decide to go to Lavorno and buy the 1.40euro ticket and hop on a new, double decker train, which I hadnt been on yet. When we got off we were greeted by something Im sure all of you wouldnt mind seeing............ Palm trees. Scott offered to pay for a cab and we headed off. About 20 minutes later we were at the base which had pretty intimidating defenses and a mixed guard of Italian carabineri and US marines. The marine we talked to was very nice and amused at our quest for junkfood. We gave our passports to the Italians and the took about 20 minutes to process them. The marine told us its much quicker if only one of them does something. Italy isnt known for its efficency. Although the PX was closed the shoppette was open so we made our way. Before we made it to the shop we were stopped by the amazing sight of a vending machine next to an ATM that dished out DOLLARS, which dont feel like real money anymore, just like Euros didnt feel real when I first held them. The dollar felt huge and ridiculus, not to mention ugly. Walking into the shopette WAS a kid walking into a candy store. I figured I hadnt had any processed junk for 3 months so I might as well go with it. I loaded my basket up with velveeta, chips, oreos, reeces pieces, poptarts, rice crispy treats and a basketball magazine. Paying in dollars was good tho. 20 dollars actually was 20 dollars. When I pay with Euros 20 turns into 30. Walking with our heads held high we carried our bulging bags of sugar and fat to the front gate, where we took a cab to pisa, which was actually closer than Verona. We caught a train home around 10.It was a fun trip and after the first few treats I started passing out the rest.
Monday in class we made a swordfish wrap with a large piece of sword fish that we filled with a mix of, capers, parmigiano, bread crumb, olive, pine nuts. Held closed with tooth pics we seared it quickly in tomato, olive and olive oil. Pretty tasty although I dont really care for pine nuts. Last night I went and played basket with our teacher and about 7 other students. I played pretty well altough I had no strength in my ankle. This morning we had a great class. In introduction for professional cooking we had a review for our final for about 30 minutes then the Chef surprised us. He pointed to two huge baskets of food and said "You have 45 minutes to make up a recipe". I was excited because this is what I'm best at, improvising and making something out of whatevers lying around. This wasnt like at home tho. This was two baskets of the freshest food in the world. The meat we were working with was chicken leg. At first I thought about doing a chicken marsala type dish but then I thought of something that I didnt think anyone else would come close to. I decided to make a chicken, pancetta, artichoke stuffed ravioli with a broccoli, celery, zucchini cream sauce. Yea i know it sounds good! First I deboned the chicken and trimmed the arichoke down. I sauteed onion and garlic for a minute before adding the chicken and artichoke. I let that cook while I cut the veggies for the sauce. After about 10 min I turned the chicken down and added the pancetta. I started the cream sauce by making bechamel, which is 50g butter, 50 g flour and 500 ml milk. You start heating up the milk with sale, pepe and nutmeg then in a seprate pot melt butter on high and slowly whisk in the flour. When its smooth you add the hot milk and whisk more. When that was done I set it aside and sauteed the celery, broccoli and zucchini for about 6 minutes which I then tossed into the cream sauce, which was then placed on low heat and stirred well. To make the pasta I measured out 100 gr flour and made a bowl out of it on the table, which i broke an egg into and topped with sale, and a little olive oil. I mixed it with my hands set it aside, wrapped in plastic wrap. I took the chicken, artichoke and pancetta mix and blended it with a food processor until smooth and placed it in one of those baggies that people use to put on frosting. I rolled out the pasta until thin tossed flour on top and then used a brush to wet with water and used the baggy to place the filling. Pressing around each filling ball I sealed the pasta, then cut with a pasta cutter. While I put the ravioli on to boil I checked the sauce and noticed that it was too thick ( i wanted it to be more liquid than thick) so I added milk and salt and pepper. Dont be shy to use salt in the sauce. When the pasta was cooked (about 10 min) I put some sauce and pasta in a saute pan and let it mix together. Plating it I spooned the ravioli on and topped with lines of olive oil and sprinkles of parmigiano. I was proud of my dish, as it tasted great and looked good also. Everyone did a great job in the class but It was good to hear the chef say that mine was the most creative and that he thought it was "Molto Bono" or excellent. For you vegetarians you could substitute the chicken and panchetta pretty easily. I typed up a recipe pretty quick so if I forgot something go ahead and ask.

And home!



November 27, 2007


Ravioli con Pollo y pancetta alla Alaska
Serves 2
Filling:
Chicken breast
onion 1/2
garlic 1 part
olive oil
artichoke 1
Pancetta, 1 strip (or use 2 strips of thick bacon)



Sauce
50gr burro
50gr white flour
500 ml latte
3/4 celery stalk
3/4 zucchini
1broccoli head &stalk
1onion
sale pepe, nutmeg
Parmigiano

Pasta
100 gr Flour, 1 egg, drops of olive oil, sale

First cut the chicken into 1 inch pieces. Chop onion and garlic and set aside. Cut top and bottom and all unwanted parst of artichoke, quarter and set aside. Chop pancetta and put with rest of filling. Heat up olive oil in saute pan on med high heat and add garlic and onion when hot. After about 5 minutes add chicken, artichoke and more olive oil. After about 10 minutes add pancetta and turn to med heat, while making the sauce be sure to stir filling occasionaly. Start the sauce by making a bechamel sauce using the butter, flour and milk. Put the milk in a pot with sale, pepe and nutmeg (pinch).Heat the butter on high heat and slowly add the flour while whisking. Once milk is hot add it into the butter flour mix while whisking continuously. Once mixed set aside. Chop celery, onion, zucchini and broccoli into small, almost minced pieces. Saute with olive oil until cooked (about 10 min) and add to cream sauce. Put cream sauce back on stove and cool on low- med heat. Take filling off stove and blend with a food processor until very smooth. Set filling aside and start the pasta. Make a bowl out of the flour and fill with the egg, sale and olive oil. Mix by hand and knead for 5-10 minutes. Let sit for 5-10 minutes. Roll by hand or with pasta machine until thin. Spread into a sheet and powder with flour, then apply a light coating of water with a brush. Put blended filling into a sleeve and place at even intervals along sheet, staying in the middle. Use the sleeve to place small balls of filling the same size along the sheet. Fold pasta over the filling and press all around to seal. Cut with a pasta cutter and set aside. Turn sauce on low heat and add milk if sauce is very thick. Sauce must be more liquid than thick. Put water on to boil, adding a pinch of sale. When boiling add ravioli and cook for about 10 minute. When ravioli is done mix with sauce, about 3 spoon-fulls for every 4 ravioli. Plate and garnish with olive oil and parmigiano.




P.S. Postcards coming

Trip to Venice.

So I had been planning on going to Amsterdam with my roommates but since I found out that break is 6 weeks long I have been trying to figure out what I am going to do that whole time. Tickets home are very expensive and once I get there I would have no house of my own, no cell phone and a car that I would have to de-freeze. My roommate Mario invited me to stay with the part of his family that lives in Napoli, Italy for a week and then fly to New York with him to stat at his place for the rest of break. This would be two great experiences: living with a real Italian family in Napoli and getting to visit New York. Not only that but it would be an immersion in Italian language that would help me learn, not to mention a chance to save money on rent and possibly have a chance to get a job. So that means that I opted out of a very expensive Amsterdam trip and chose instead to go to Venice with Brittany. Venice in my mind was a small town with little waterways. While on the right track I was pretty far off the real Venice. I found a cheap hotel (a 1 star) online called hotel Giovaninna (you can google it) and we booked two nights. It was about 30 Euro a person which was pretty good for Venice which has a reputation for being expensive. We set off at about 1pm for the Florence trainstation with the train scheduled to leave at 1:30. I used my Eurail pass to reserve a seat and she bought hers with cash. Not being satisfied with her previous experiences she decided to pay to bump us up to first class. I had no objections! We hoppped on the train and were treated to complimentary drinks and bathrooms that were a huge step above coach. A quickly passing three hour ride with farmland and hill top castles as scenery brought us into view of the ocean. Venice couldnt be far off. We arrived at the trainstation and immediately I recognized the familiar ocean air as soon as it hit my nostrils. Stepping out of the trainstation we were faced with the unexpected sight of the steps leading from the trainstation directly into the Grand Canal. Water taxis, Busses, gondolas and personal crafts busied the water with a hurried but not frantic energy. It was an amazing sight, more so due to the surprising nature of walking out of one work into a completely new and unique one. We called the hotel and found out that it was actually located in the Maestra section of Venice. Maestra is where people park their cars, (no driving in venice due to the roads being water) and take busses or trains into venice. We then had to take a 1 euro train back the way we came, which took about 15 minutes. From the train station in Maestra it took about 20 minutes and help from a nice old Italian man (thank god for my Italian class) to find our hotel, that we would have been able to walk to in 5 minutes if we knew where It was. We unloaded our bags, stretched and got ready to head to Venice. On the way out the front desk man gave us some very useful advice including how to buy a pass for whatever time period you choose that allows you on all land and water busses. he also handed out little venetian maps that proved invaluable. Stopping at a cafe for espresso and caffe latte we also picked up the previously mentioned passes. Only 20 euro for the whole time we would be there. We then stepped over to the bus stop and waited for the number two land (you know a place in unique when you have to specify between land and wated) bus to Venice that cycled through every 20 minutes. We climbed aboard the standing room only bus and set off for the city that we had so briefly been introduced to. By the time we arrived it was pretty much dark. We were dropped off at the last area that allowed motor vehicles at a station called Roma. From there we decided to hope on a water bus and take a ride. The bus stops were floating, covered docks that looked like gutted trailer homes. The route of each water bus was clearly marked and very easy to understand. We got on the first one that came along and unknowingly set off in a direction that took us away from everything we wanted to see and out into a bay. Although it was a nice ride with beautiful building all around we soon realized our mistake when we were confronted with open water. We got off at the next stop and once we were on one going in the right direction we were able to fully enjoy the ride. The water busses were about the same length as regular city busses with an open, uncovered sitting area in the back. The middle was the largest area and was a covered sitting area with two rows of seats and many windows. The boat was pretty wide and held many people. Towards the front there was a covered area with gates on both sides where people boarded. That area was also used as standing room during transit and had the second best view, after the back. The very front had the captains cabin and was closed off. The boat stopped about every 6 or 7 minutes to let people on and off. It was amazing to see building build in a maze of bluish green water. Steps and doorways led right to the lapping tongues of the canals. As it became dark the more important and beautiful buildings became lit up with different colored lights, accenting the natural romantic nature of the canal city. About halfway down the Grand Canal we saw a large white bridge going over the water, surrounded by restaurants and people. We got off at the closest station and walked around for a while. We were amazed by the amount of shops and stores, a number that dwarfed even Florence. Beautiful glassware was everywhere, which is something that Venice is known for. We walked up the bridge and around the area for a while before finding a restaurant to eat in. The food was pretty good but I think we could have found a much better place if we had tried a little harder. After that we went to talk to the Gondola people (who were everywhere) but were disappointed to find out that it was 100 euro per half hour. That translates to about 140 US. Unless I wanted to eat rice for the rest of the month that wasnt going to happen. After that we enjoyed exploring the city at night. Venice is filled with tiny corridors and open areas, randomly one next to the other. I felt completely safe walking down dark alleys and badly lit streets. One thing about Europe (the parts Ive been to) is that the crime and danger that I heard about is completely overstated. I feel a million times safer walking here than I do in the big cities Ive been to in the US. I walk home alone up to 3 4 in the AM with no uncomfortable feelings when the same cant be done in some US cities during daylight. I think a large part of it is the fact that there are no guns here. The fear of having to fight someone is alot less than worrying about some person with a gun. But anyway! Back to Venice. Wandering through streets we were drawn towards loud noises of music and yelling. In one piazza we found a large group of highly intoxicated local kids dancing to music, yelling and swinging each other around. It was pretty fun to watch for a little while before we moved on. At about 11 we headed back to the hotel. I stopped by the restaurant next door and had some wine and then walked around by myself for a little while, finding a nice park and enjoying the slight rain that was falling. The next day we set off for Venice pretty late as it had been raining pretty hard all day. We had about 45 minutes of light and we did pretty much the same thing as the night before, wandering the streets and looking in shops. The masks that they use for their carnavales were everywhere and very beautiful. That night we actually took our time and found a nice restaurant with candle-lit tables and a very cozy feel. I ordered some vino (of course although she hasnt found a taste for it yet i credit Brittany for trying) and some scallops in a thick cream for appetizer, followed by spaghetti with clams and an insalata mista (mixed salad). Brittany had tomato and basil gnocchi, a mixed seafood pasta with artichoke and mixed grilled vegetables. Everything was very tasty, especially the gnocchi and scallops. After dinner we rode the water bus for a while and then headed home. Although the weather hadnt been very good it was a good day and great dinner. I also felt like I had mastered the water and land bus system, which was good. The next day woke up early and checked out of the hotel at 10. The hotel held onto our bags for us so we didnt have to pay at the trainstation to hold them, which helped alot. The hotel was actually pretty good. While it had a couple rough spots I would definitely stay there again. Free of bags and with an early start we headed out, stopping at our cafe for caffe and pastry. We hopped on the # 2 bus and returned to Venice. In daylight it was a completely different city. The buildings vivid colors stood out and the true color and nature of the water was seen and felt for the first time. We decided to walk from the Roma station instead of taking a boat. We followed the main route and walked into the street market that was filled with masks, souvenirs and food. There was food and candies everywhere, ever more than in Firenze. I tried the local style of pizza which is a rolled pizza and was excellent. We went into many shops and were amazed by the beautiful glass art, much of it made in a region called "Morano". (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murano_glass) Walking over scores of bridges and next to kilometers of canal we found ourselves again at the white bridge that signified that we were halfway down the Grand canal. From there we decided to go all the way to the other end, a part that we hadnt seen yet. We had been walking for about 5 hours and relaxing on the boat felt great. The sun had come out at about noon and had stayed up, making it a sunny, beautiful day. As we headed towards San Marco church and Piazza we passed beautiful buildings on both sides and watched boats of all kinds, including ambulance and police boats that sped by. As we reached the end of the canal we turned so that our left side was to the city and our right was to the open bay. An amazing horizon unfolded with sun shining off the water and large churches dominating the cityscape. When we departed at san marco station we walked through yet another market and decided to sit on a bench for a while. While we were there we threw a couple chips to some pigeons and were soon surrounded by about 50 birds. We had fun with them for a while, feeding them out of our hands and even getting one to come up my leg. When we ran out of food we headed to San Marco (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Mark) When we walked into a very entertaining scene. A huge open area was filled with dozens of people feeding thousands of pigeons with seeds that were for sale nearby. The kids were especially cute to watch with them. The birds would swarm each person, landing everywhere on their body. Of course we joined in. Very fun. We did that for a while before we headed towards the church. Like all other major churches in Italy it was huge. In front of the church was a large piazza. We looked at the architecture for a while before heading off to wash our hands and get something to eat. We were treated to a beautiful sunset as we rode the water bus us the canal. We found a nice little trattatoria where we had Vino, salmon gnocchi, mixed seafood plate, a creamy seafood pasta, spinachi, roasted potatoes and salad. This meal was also very good. We slowly wandered back to the land bus stop and prepared to go home. This is where the real adventure started. We got to the hotel at about 21:00 and gathered our things. We walked to the trainstation where we discovered that there were no trains to Firenze posted. We asked the only employee we could find and he said that we would have to catch a train that was headed to Bologna then wait there for a train that was heading to Napoli that stopped in Firenze. The only problem was that it was getting pretty chilly and the train to Bologna didnt leave until 30 minutes after midnight. Out of Firenze there is usually a train every hour to the major cities and it was only a little after 9pm so i was surprised that we were stranded. After waiting in outer Venice for three hours we got on the train to Bologna. After about an hour and a half on that train we got off at our stop. The Bologna station held only bad news. Not only was the train to Napoli not leaving until 4:10 AM it was Italian daylight savings time. The clock moved BACK an hour. So we had an extra hour to enjoy the comforts of the train station. Brittany was cold and wanted to sleep so we went to one of the underground tunnels and she slept while I read and watched our stuff. The usual people you would expect to hang out at a trainstation at that time in the morning were all there, making it even more enjoyable. At about 3:45 I woke her up and we headed to where our train would be. By that time it was pretty chilly and windy, of course having been raised correctly I gave up my jacket and sweater for the comfort of my female companion. She managed to get another 45minutes or sleep on our luggages as we waited on the stone bench. Luckily I had my history book with me so I didnt fall asleep. Our train rumbled in out of the dark and we dragged ourselves on. All the private cabins were taken so we had to share one with two men. Fearing missing our stop, the loss of our passports and visa cards I again took one for the team and stayed awake. Brittany drifted to sleep and I read my book. One of the men actually turned out pretty nice and gave me an orange and some gum, proof that all the world doesnt hate Americans. After about 3 hours I realized something was wrong. Bologna was halfway to Florence and it should have only taked 1 and a half hours. I matched the cities we passed to my Italy book and a sinking feeling crept into my stomach. The train had NOT stopped in Florence but had continued on through. The superstition of the fountain of Trevi came true. I had thrown a coin over my shoulder and now I was returning to Rome! After I realized what had happened I hoped for a stop so we could get off and stop going the wrong direction. It was now 7AM and after a day of walking I was pretty tired. We reached Rome at 820 AM and went to the ticket counter. Of course nothing could just be easy. We discovered that there was a train to Firenze that left in a half an hour but none that left from that station. We had to go to the subway and take it to another train station (termini centrale) and then catch our train. We rushed to the subway and made it in, although the minutes seemed to be moving faster than normal. We boarded the Eurostar and thanksfully it was the quickest train in Europe. In 90 minutes we were in Florence. In another 30 i was in my bed. Things like that are miserable when they happen but become the stories that first come to your mind when you recall your past.